Are you a bespoke suit rookie? We tell you how to talk the talk.
In the end, what separates the men from the boys, is suiting up bespoke, instead of off the rack. But in case 40 S sounds like a soon-to-be-released iPhone to you, and Angelina Jolie's leg-baring red carpet posing is the most familiar you are with slits – congratulations, you're a bespoke suits rookie. To sound more veteran, less virgin, here's how to talk the talk through your first time with a fancy bespoke tailor.
The L-Word: Being down with the lingo is key in order to trick your tailor into believing you've already been there, or done that. Use lingo such as “sleeve head”, when describing the upper part of your jacket's sleeves, and when you start talking lapels – not, “collars” - that will also make for the right kind of first impression. While you're at it, make sure you're specific regarding the type of lapel you want – choosing between a notch lapel, peak lapel, diamond lapel, or shawl lapel for your jacket.
Know your wools: A wool bespoke suit remains an all-time classic, and particularly during the fall/winter season, it is the must-have bespoke attire. When it comes to the wool of a tailored suit, it's all about the S numbers which indicate the fineness and quality of a wool, making 80s less fine than 100s for example. The most popular types of fine wool are 160s, 180s and 200s. And when it comes to the type of wool the ultimate taste-makers choose for their bespoke wear, lama wool, or the extremely rare (read: extremely pricey) vicuna wool is what gets them going.
Slit-ettiquette: The slit – or vents as they are officially called – should never be requested if you're planning on wearing your bespoke suit as evening wear. Nonetheless, they can can keep your suit in better shape at the the office, when sitting down or putting your hands into your pockets for example. Whether you go for a single vent or a double vent in the back, is completely up to you.
The perfect fit: Ask for an unstructured suit – that is, loosely tailored without padding - if you're looking for that second-skin experience. For something slightly more trendy, go slim-fit. As far as the trousers are concerned, be clear about whether you want them regular leg, narrow leg, or wide leg.
An eye for detail: Make sure your tailor makes the sleeves of your jacket slightly shorter so at least 1cm of your shirt can come out, and ask for handmade buttonholes to sound like the pro you aren't. Speaking of buttons, go for either a two-button or three-button model for the jacket. Otherwise, ask for a double-breasted jacket, or doppio petto as the Italians call them. Finally, specify whether you like your pants cuffed or not, your shoulders with or without padding, and your seams visible or invisible.
Recommended for You
WASHINGTON - Federal offices in the Washington area will be closed Tuesday as a round of snow is expected to hit the region just in time for the morning commute.Associated Press
WASHINGTON (AP) — Federal offices in the DC area will be closed Tuesday as a round of snow is expected to hit the region just in time for the morning commute.Associated Press
A deadly winter storm kept a tight grip on much of the United States on Monday as cold, snow and ice spread across the East Coast, snarling traffic and knocking out power to thousands. As much as 5 inches of snow were forecast for Monday night into Tuesday and much of the area from Virginia to…Reuters
MINNEAPOLIS - Snow and bitter cold snarled traffic and prompted another 1,650 U.S. flight cancellations on Monday, and tens of thousands of people were still without power after January-like weather barged in a month early.Associated Press
MINNEAPOLIS (AP) — Snow and bitter cold snarled traffic and prompted another 1,650 U.S. flight cancellations on Monday, and tens of thousands of people were still without power after January-like weather barged in a month early.Associated Press
By Irene and Klotz SAN FRANCISCO (Reuters) - The Arctic air blasting the eastern United States is positively balmy compared to the record minus 136 degrees Fahrenheit (minus 93 degrees Celsius) temperature measured in Antarctica in August 2010, according to research released on Monday. Scientists…Reuters
Report: it's cold in Chicago. The fact that it's cold in Chicago on December 9 is not much of a surprise. But this is a different kind of cold that the Cowboys will be facing on Monday Night Football, with temperatures in the area dipping below 15 degrees and with wind chill conditions making it…SB Nation
SAN FRANCISCO — Where is the coldest temperature ever measured on Earth? "It's in Antarctica of course," Ted Scambos, lead scientist at the National Snow and Ice Data Center in Boulder, Colo., said here today (Dec. 9) at the annual meeting of the American Geophysical Union.LiveScience.com
WASHINGTON (AP) — Feeling chilly? Here's cold comfort: You could be in East Antarctica which new data says set a record for "soul-crushing" cold.Associated Press
Rescuers were searching on Monday for two adults and four young children a day after they were last seen near an abandoned mining camp in remote northwestern Nevada where they had gone to play in the snow, local authorities said. The couple had taken their two children and niece and nephew, who…Reuters
Oh, the weather outside is frightful. ''So what?'' say LeSean McCoy, Cordarrelle Patterson and even the Miami Dolphins. Sunday's action in precipitation that took pretty much a straight line from Washington to Baltimore to Philadelphia - with a side trip to Pittsburgh - brought some spectacular…The Associated Press
Lebanese authorities are mobilising to help Syrian refugees living in makeshift camps ahead of a winter storm expected to bring snow and heavy rain, the social affairs minister said Monday. "The ministry, in cooperation with UNHCR and all our partners, has mobilised to do what's necessary to…AFP
A huge snow and ice storm on Monday forced the cancellation of hundreds of flights and sparked major delays at airports in the northeastern United States and Texas. In the Washington area, flights in and out of both Reagan National Airport and Dulles international airport were disrupted due to the…AFP
LOVELOCK, Nev. (AP) — A search resumed Monday in the remote mountains of northwest Nevada for a couple and four children who went to play in the snow and haven't returned after a night of sub-zero temperatures.Associated Press
HOUSTON (Reuters) - Freezing weather across Texas set two December power use records over the weekend as residents worked to stay warm, according to preliminary data from the state's power grid operator. Power demand on Friday reached 51,484 megawatts in the hour ending at 7 p.m. CDT (0100 GMT),…Reuters
While temperatures dropped around the country, NFL offenses heated up during an unprecedented scoring binge. A winter storm system dropped snow and frigid temperatures around the NFL on Sunday, but couldn't freeze out the league's offenses on a record-setting day. The NFL set a new mark for…SB Nation
PHILADELPHIA (AP) — A plodding storm that dumped heavy snow on the unsuspecting Mid-Atlantic region left roads slippery and slushy in the Northeast for Monday's commute while travel disruptions continued rippling across the country days after the same system first began wreaking havoc in the skies.Associated Press
For days, temperatures have plunged across a large portion of the United States, accompanied by a storm system that's brought sleet, snow, ice or a combination of all three. The weather has been a factor in several deaths and has caused treacherous travel conditions and the cancellation of…Associated Press
PHILADELPHIA - A plodding storm that dumped heavy snow on the unsuspecting Mid-Atlantic region threatened to make roads dicey in the northeast corridor for Monday's commute while travel disruptions continued to ripple across the country days after the same system first began wreaking havoc in the…Associated Press
China is poorly prepared to tackle the impact of climate change that presents a serious threat to the country, thanks to a lack of planning and public awareness, the government said on Monday. The world's most populous country already faces challenges from weather extremes, with 2,000 people dying…Reuters